Maverick chef Ann Cooper aims to spark a nationwide school-lunch revolution. Currently, 78 percent of schools in America do not meet USDA nutritional guidelines.

Food Becomes Curriculum in School Lunch Revolution
By Tom Philpott

Even the most intractable pathology can disappear, sometimes relatively quickly. A sign above a water fountain proclaiming “no coloreds” would cause any American to flinch today. Just half a century ago throughout the South, such abominations formed a banal part of the built landscape.

I got to thinking about deep-rooted problems and rapid change a few days ago while talking with Ann Cooper, a former star chef who now proudly styles herself a “renegade lunch lady.”

Cooper is on a mission to transform the nation’s abysmal school-lunch system. I met her for a cup of coffee in Asheville, N.C., where she was promoting her new book Lunch Lessons: Changing the Way We Feed Our Children. After our conversation, I began to wonder if the idea of pumping kids full of flavorless, nutritionally suspect convenience food at school might soon become as socially unacceptable as Jim Crow-style racism.

Cooper has certainly taken on a daunting task. She currently serves as nutrition director of the Berkeley Unified School System, a 16-school, 9,000-student outfit in California. When she took the job in 2005, she found that the district’s food-service system had completely retreated from actual cooking. “When I arrived, 100 percent of the food arrived in plastic, was reheated in plastic, and served to the kids in plastic,” she says.

Overcoming an absurdly stringent budget and severely limited cooking infrastructure within school cafeterias, she has already eliminated what she calls “plastic food” and is now serving fresh, made-from-scratch meals.

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